As memories linger fresh, I jot down this travel tale while listening to the OST of the movie "Love Letter" through my earphones, both to offer a bit of insight to those who chance upon these words and as a personal memo.
1. Inception
Having previously visited Japan in early 2019 for a New Year's trip around Kanto, I had a 3-year multiple-entry visa which unfortunately saw only 1 use due to COVID-19. With plans for another trip in 2023's October Golden Week falling through, the idea of a Hokkaido adventure arose unexpectedly.
On a day in early February, I logged into Weibo and discovered a high school and university senior's post about their family trip to Hokkaido during the Chinese New Year, glowing about the experience. Hailing from the Southwest of China, the allure of Japan and its winter wonderland kindled a desire to visit Hokkaido in mid to late March. Concerns lingered about whether Hokkaido's winter had passed, and on a hunch, I asked Gemini via chathub:
When does the snow in Hokkaido usually melt?
Gemini replied:
The melting time of snow in Hokkaido varies depending on the specific location and year. Generally, snow in Hokkaido melts between March and May. In the southern part of Hokkaido, snow usually melts by late March or early April. In central and northern Hokkaido, snow typically melts by late April or early May. In mountainous areas, snow may persist until late May or early June.
Here are some estimated snow melting times for major cities in Hokkaido: Sapporo: Late March Asahikawa: Mid-April Hakodate: Mid-April Otaru: Mid-April Obihiro: Late April Kushiro: Early May In 2024, the snow melting time in Hokkaido may be slightly earlier than usual due to higher winter temperatures. Here are the estimated snow melting times for major Hokkaido cities in 2024: Sapporo: March 20th Asahikawa: April 5th Hakodate: April 10th Otaru: April 10th Obihiro: April 20th Kushiro: May 5th Please note, these are just predictions, and actual snow melting times may vary.
Although unsure about Gemini's data source, this information instilled confidence in finding ample snow for sightseeing in Hokkaido in mid to late March. I kept a tab on the local weather and city landscapes through official meteorological websites and Xiaohongshu.
Preliminary flight ticket searches revealed satisfactory prices at around 1700 yuan for round-trip adult tickets without checked baggage, given it wasn't peak season or a Chinese holiday.
2. Visa Application
The Japanese visa process for Chinese individuals is known to be straightforward and efficient when provided with the required documents. Visa applications can only be submitted through qualified travel agencies. Opting for convenience due to time and energy constraints, I processed the application through a travel agency on Taobao. Post-order, I discovered that Ctrip's official visa service pricing was more competitive. Though prices may fluctuate based on demand, Ctrip's services tended to be more cost-effective than similar services found on Taobao.
5-Year Multiple Entry Visa: Summarizing the visa conditions, the main criteria involve possessing savings or annual income exceeding 500,000 RMB, with only one family member needing to meet this requirement for others to apply jointly, with the threshold lowered for the 3-year multiple entry visa. Successfully, our family, including our 2-year-old child, obtained 5-year multiple entry visas. A small tip: I used the WeChat mini-program EasyDrawing to crop photos from everyday life, sidestepping the hassle of retaking pictures. Through PDD's photocopying service and mailing, costs were competitive due to the platform's elimination of expensive store overheads and intermediaries, almost reaching a free printing deal barring logistics fees.
Single Entry Visa: A single entry visa requires savings or annual income exceeding 100,000 RMB. A challenge for our family was proving Shanghai residential status for more convenient procedures and potential efficiency. Providing the required Residence Certificate and Residence Permit Approval Application, validated with residential filings, sufficed, with council-issued residence certification recognized.
3. Itinerary Planning
Initially, I attempted to outline and suggest travel itineraries using AI, providing details of our arrival and departure times, our group composition, and our core desires (staying together, engaging in skiing and hot spring experiences). Feedback varied among AI models, but Alibaba's Tongyi Qianwen and Kimi Chat by Moonshot AI presented results with fewer discrepancies.
To expedite decision-making on the itinerary framework and save time collecting specific information such as transportation details, I purchased a personalized Hokkaido itinerary service from a Taiwanese woman residing in Hokkaido on the Xianyu app. Proving to be a wise decision, despite potential delays due to her part-time engagement, her responses were comprehensive and detailed, drawing from rich local and trip-designing experiences, swiftly culminating in a daily itinerary across 4 days on a per-day basis, leaving us to fill in details and supplement queries on transportation, dining, and more.
Ultimately, the wealth of travel-related information on Xiaohongshu struck me. It was easy to find useful notes by keywords. Additionally, Google Maps and Dianping yielded valuable insights—the former providing global user insights and evaluations on various restaurants, attractions, and malls, simplifying destination sharing with companions through tagging and list-making features, while the latter mainly focused on Chinese user perspectives, though limited reviews on overseas vendors might result in missing or sparsely reviewed establishments.
4. Detailed Itinerary
Subsequently, here marks the detailed account of our Hokkaido trip, chronologically recorded, interweaving reasons for setting the itinerary and my travel reflections.
Day 1 Shanghai-Sapporo
Airport Transportation
Departing home at 6 AM for Pudong T2 Airport, the early hour precluded Maglev train services, typically our preferred mode of airport transit due to speed, punctuality, and reasonable pricing. Leveraging the benefits of the credit card's shuttle service, a spacious Buick GL8 shuttle was allocated, ideal for family travel with ample luggage capacity and a chassis design minimizing child discomfort without the rapid acceleration typical of new energy vehicles, ideal for families traveling with children.
Return Tickets and Mobile WiFi
Post-arrival, we processed check-in and baggage services with Spring Airlines at the selected early flight time, offering optimal arrival and midday landing, allowing for ample exploration despite the missed onboard dining pre-orders. This flight selection was based on convenient timings and competitive pricing in Spring Airlines' Japan routes. Reflecting on previous experiences and changes in operational strategies, my perception of Spring Airlines transformed, respecting cost-saving measures in delivering budget flights, adapting to new cabin services without the prior aggressive in-flight sales tactics, allowing for a shift in stance.
It's worth mentioning that to distinguish various user needs accurately, Spring Airlines categorized ticket rates based on luggage carriage entitlement and seat location, selecting tickets without free checked baggage, aiming to make additional baggage purchases post-ticketing or economize expenses by procuring third-party acquired entitlement services through Taobao, proving less savings when compared to official Spring Airlines parcel packages. This experience highlights evaluating overall prices between differ insurance schemes before selecting the most cost-effective option if baggage requirements arise.
Regarding baby stroller considerations, our constraints included:
- Each passenger per our ticket entitlement was allowed one free-size stipulated hand-carry luggage each.
- Our checked luggage weight limits posed challenges in conjunction with our stroller weight, exceeding our entitlement.
- Navigating from security to boarding gates over extended distances, strollers significantly enhanced our baby's portability throughout our journey.
Notably, for mobile WiFi, I opted for Ctrip's Roamingman service. While in recent outbound experiences, preparation for mobile WiFi had become less of a necessity due to China's telecoms bundling overseas roaming packages capped at a daily expenditure limit (20-30 RMB), enabling seamless international communication and avoiding previous costly data issues. However, given the three adults' internet needs, the need to sidestep intricate overseas roaming procedures, and the competitive unlimited 4G 16 RMB/day fee for Roamingman's services left me satisfied, offering a standalone Android phone exclusively reserved for mobile hotspot usage, guaranteed battery durability for the day's entirety from morning charge to nightfall use, ensuring adequate network speeds.
Immigration
Immigration forms were conveniently distributed on board the aircraft, easily filled out. Hokkaido's New Chitose Airport featured relatively low queuing upon arrival, ensuring swift processing when prior submitted declaration forms were completed, almost directly facing immigration officers.
Upon baggage collection, it was well past 1 PM local time; lulled by rumors of a satisfying airport dining experience at New Chitose Airport, and lacking substantial onboard meal selection, we ventured towards the airport's domestic terminal.
Airport Lunch
Teshikaga Ramen
Ramen is reputed as one of Hokkaido's four regional delicacies (alongside Soup Curry, Seafood Donburi, and Crab specialties). Evaluating to bypass potential city-centric queues for popular outlets and unremarkable in-airport options, we decided to sample our first Hokkaido meal as ramen. Perusing in guidebook insights, the airport heralded a sizable Ramen Republic, encompassing multiple eminent ramen establishments, listing one or two standout contenders with high popularity. Factor in to manage sandwiched flight hours, said this eatery to be in our periphery's proximity, thus lauding it for our inaugural lunch spot—at Teshikaga.
We ordered two broth varieties, soy sauce and salt specialties, adequately satisfying but not particularly memorable. Limitations may have stemmed from a lack of prior exposure to Japanese ramen, hindering our ability to discern subtleties among ramen variations.
Payment Methods
In Japan, various payment methods are available, with dozens of logos printed near the cashier. However, for Chinese individuals, common options include Alipay (sometimes PayPay in Japan), WeChat Pay, credit cards, or Suica cards. Before COVID-19, Alipay and WeChat Pay had decent popularity in Japan, but a significant decrease in Chinese tourists during the pandemic reportedly lowered their usage. However, during my recent observations, these methods still enjoy high adoption rates, with at least one of them being supported by most businesses except for a few that only accept cash or credit cards.
Alipay and WeChat Pay have their own marketing strategies. For instance, WeChat Pay offers discounts based on the number of transactions, with increasing discounts tied to transaction volume, reaching a maximum discount of around 0.7% of the transaction amount. While these discounts are not as significant as the 1% cashback for overseas spending with my China Construction Bank Muse card plus an 8% rebate on monthly spending over ¥5000 capped at ¥200, I still prefer using credit cards for payments these days.
Kinotoya Ice Cream
Kinotoya Milk Ice Cream, located next to the domestic flight terminal on the 2nd floor walkway, is a popular spot at New Chitose Airport. After trying the ramen, we queued up to taste their freshly churned ice cream. While the ice cream's notable feature is its taller-than-average scoop, it didn't quite match the hype for me.
Heading to the Accommodation with Suica Cards
After enjoying the ice cream, it was past 3 PM, and we prepared to take the JR train to our accommodation in Sapporo. We had brought two Suica cards purchased on a previous trip to Japan, and these cards were valid at all locations we planned to visit during this trip. Suica cards are valid for ten years from the last usage, making them more user-friendly compared to Hong Kong's Octopus card, which expires after five years. However, reloading Suica cards at machines requires cash, which can be inconvenient.
During our stay, I used an electronic Suica card on my phone, which I found satisfactory. Japan now widely supports and promotes NFC-based electronic Suica cards on smartphones. Apple users can easily activate them even when outside Japan, while Android support seems limited to phones sold locally. Besides the environmental benefits, using electronic transit cards eliminates the need for a ¥500 deposit and allows travelers to recharge based on pre-estimated transportation costs, achieving a zero balance efficiently.
The JR journey from New Chitose Airport to Sapporo Station takes approximately 40 minutes. Along the way, witnessing the changing snowscape from the train was a rare and enjoyable experience.
Arrival at Airbnb Accommodation
As mentioned earlier, we chose the ELM FAMILY STAY on Airbnb for our accommodation, and it proved to be a satisfying decision. When planning our itinerary, I found that centrally located budget hotels in Sapporo cost around ¥700-800 per night for a room with a single 1.5m bed, a mini bathroom, and limited space. To accommodate our party of three adults and one child, we would need at least two such rooms or a costly suite. However, the Airbnb option I found cost an average of only ¥1100 per night, offering ample space and amenities for all of us.
In my Airbnb review, I highlighted the positive aspects of our stay:
"We spent three enjoyable nights at Yuri's house with three adults and one toddler.
- Transportation: The house is a 5-minute walk from the Toho Line Higashi Sapporo Station, just two stops away from Sapporo. It's convenient, with various stores and convenience shops along the way.
- Accommodation: It was my first experience with a Japanese-style house, and it was delightful. The house was well-maintained, with all necessary appliances. The living room and kitchen were on the first floor, and three bedrooms were on the second floor, with two double beds and three Japanese futons. There were separate bathrooms and toilets on each floor. The kitchen and bathrooms were equipped with various utensils, cups, bowls, towels, bath towels, and toothbrushes. However, toothpaste and slippers were not provided, and guests need to bring their own.
- Surroundings: We purchased essentials from a nearby convenience store, had a late-night meal at a nearby yakitori restaurant, and enjoyed playing in the Kosei Green Area.
- Host: Yuri was very accommodating, providing clear and helpful tips before, during, and after our stay. Overall, Yuri's house added a lot to our first visit to Hokkaido, creating lasting and pleasant memories."
Additionally, I can discuss the experience of staying at Yuri's Airbnb. Although it is a guesthouse booked through Airbnb, it is registered with relevant authorities in Japan as a commercial accommodation. After booking, I received an email from the official organization to pre-declare information of the planned occupants. At the accommodation's entrance, there was an internet-connected tablet for remote check-in, confirming the pre-declared information and conducting a video check-in with staff proficient in multiple languages, ensuring a smooth and efficient check-in process.
In conclusion, I recommend other travelers, especially families or group travelers, to prioritize Airbnb accommodations. Not only are they likely to offer better pricing, but they also provide a more authentic and enjoyable stay experience.
Odori Park and Sapporo TV Tower
After a brief rest at our accommodation, we headed to Odori Park. By the time we arrived, it was already dark, but the sight of snow excited us, and we enjoyed the park.
From one end of Odori Park near the subway station to the Sapporo TV Tower, we took an elevator to the observation deck to admire the night view of Sapporo. The TV tower, built in the 1950s, was quite impressive.
Curry Soup Dinner
As mentioned above, soup curry is a Hokkaido specialty. Numerous recommendations on social media led us to various highly recommended establishments, each boasting unique features such as special curry sauces, perfectly fried vegetables, or standout chicken legs or hamburger meat. However, these popular spots often have long queues. I marked several on the map and planned to try nearby ones when convenient.
Upon descending from the TV tower, despite the chilly wind, we decided to have soup curry for dinner. We made our way to "hiri hiri," a soup curry establishment on the B1 level of a mall, with no other customers present when we arrived. The restaurant provided an English menu, and though the staff had limited English proficiency, ordering by pointing at the menu presented no significant obstacles. The soup curry's flavor was satisfactory for me, but perhaps the heat level could have been higher.
Kosei Green Area and Yakitori Supper
The standard serving of rice with the soup curry wasn't substantial, so we decided to have a late-night snack at a nearby yakitori restaurant near our accommodation. The aroma of barbecue from the train earlier had caught our attention.
Upon reaching the subway station, we made some purchases at a nearby convenience store before heading to the yakitori restaurant. Surprisingly, the route from the convenience store to the restaurant mainly passed through a green space under residential buildings - the Kosei Green Area. As it wasn't a typical road, the snow was quite thick, and we had a playful walk through the area.
The Kushidori Higashikuyakushomaeten appeared to be part of a chain, offering a QR-code-enabled Chinese menu, though the translation quality was subpar. The food was decent but didn't have any standout features.
After finishing our late-night meal, we returned to our accommodation to freshen up and rest for the night.
Day 2: Sapporo - Otaru - Sapporo
To avoid the hassle of changing accommodations, we stayed in Sapporo throughout this trip. Moreover, traveling with a young child, we decided not to venture too far from Sapporo to other cities in Hokkaido.
Otaru, famous for being a filming location for "Love Letter" and a renowned port city, was relatively close to Sapporo and thus included in our itinerary. The central tourist area in Otaru extends from Minami Otaru Station to Otaru Station, passing through both the commercial district and the Otaru Canal area. Strolling from one end to the other covers most of the prominent sights and shops. Considering our dining plans, we opted to alight at Minami Otaru Station and return to Sapporo from Otaru Station.
Otaru Shopping Street
From Sapporo to Otaru, simply take the JR train from Sapporo Station; with frequent train departures, there was no need for precise scheduling. Recently, many travelers have been interested in making stops at towns like Shioya or Asari en route—the slow train is required for these, as the rapid service skips these stations. Nevertheless, even on the fast train, you can enjoy scenic views as the train passes by the coast.
Few passengers disembarked at Minami Otaru Station. From there, a pleasant walk leads to the entrance of the commercial street symbolized by Otaru Cafe x Hello Kitty, with striking crows near the station leaving a strong impression.
Honestly speaking, the Otaru Shopping Street did not leave a profound impression on me. It primarily comprises pastry shops, glassware outlets, and seafood stalls, with each shop not requiring an extended browsing time.
Otaru Masazushi
Otaru Masazushi stands as a popular sushi spot in Otaru, boasting two outlets in the city and several more across Japan. Reservations are possible via their website, which interfaces with a professional third-party dining platform. Note that English menus may simplify the information compared to the comprehensive Japanese menu.
Opting for a private room due to our child's presence, the set menu dishes arrived almost all at once. While the sushi flavors were pleasant but not extraordinary, the squid somen in the set was notably intriguing.
Otaru Canal and Mount Tengu
After lunch, we continued exploring the latter half of central Otaru, primarily the Otaru Canal. This iconic spot attracts many tourists due to its picturesque setting.
Leaving the Otaru Canal, we headed towards Mount Tengu. Known for its stunning views over Otaru and its usage as the memorable opening scene location in the movie "Love Letter," reaching Mount Tengu requires taking the No. 9 bus, with the terminus being Mount Tengu itself where you transfer to a cable car to the mountaintop (it's advisable to check the cable car's operation in snowy conditions on their official website). The starting point for the No. 9 bus is near Otaru Station, and we waited at the third stop, closer to the Otaru Canal, given the bus's infrequent schedule. It's essential to plan your bus timings well in advance.
At Mount Tengu, there are indoor observation decks and a scenic restaurant, along with ample outdoor space for sightseeing and snow-related activities. Otaru's colder temperatures compared to Sapporo made the thick snow on Mount Tengu perfect for an enjoyable time.
To have dinner and return to Sapporo, we descended from Mount Tengu before 5 PM. However, this time also attracted many tourists heading up the mountain to admire the twilight and evening scenery.
Otaru Beer Otaru Warehouse No.1 and Naruto Main Shop
Otaru Beer Otaru Warehouse No.1
Upon returning from Mount Tengu by bus to the city center, we first visited Otaru Beer Otaru Warehouse No.1, located alongside the canal.
Otaru Beer Otaru Warehouse No.1 is a large craft beer house offering both enjoyment of craft beer and beer brewing training. It serves as a local craft beer enthusiasts' hub. The location boasts classical European decor reminiscent of scenes from some movies by Hayao Miyazaki. The giant beer vat in the middle of the lobby and several large brewing vats visible through the glass make a significant impression. Engaging in a semi-self-service ordering system, each SKU comes with a number; customers fill out their requests on a paper on the table, hand it to the staff, and the items are promptly delivered. Besides standard and traditional brews, the establishment offers fruit-infused beer flavors; we sampled four varieties, all enjoyable. The food menu encompasses common appetizers; we ordered soybeans, ham, and a sausage platter, which were satisfactory. Noteworthy are the beer mats at the bar, hand-drawn to depict the core brewing processes, which customers can take as keepsakes. Overall, for beer enthusiasts visiting Otaru, this is an essential spot.
Naruto Main Shop
Naruto Main Shop is a local restaurant specializing in fried chicken that was originally known for its sushi offerings. The shift to fried chicken proved immensely popular. Glowing reviews on social media and review platforms piqued our interest, prompting us to give it a try.
Located within a ten-minute walk from Otaru Station, we arrived around 7 PM and received a queue number. After registering the number on the machine at the entrance and receiving a paper ticket, we waited in the designated queue area. The restaurant has two floors, and given that fried chicken is a fast food option, the turnover was swift. Within minutes of being seated after our number was called, a staff member ushered us to a Tatami seating area and provided a table number. Customers can review the menu, then order and pay at the counter with their table number, after which the food is brought to the seat.
Truth be told, the fried chicken at Naruto Main Shop did not strike me as particularly exceptional. I didn't quite experience the crispy skin and juicy chicken that some reviewers had raved about. The chicken wings were high in fat content and suited well for deep-frying, making them the highlight of the meal.
After leaving Naruto Main Shop, we walked to Otaru Station to catch the JR train back to Sapporo. If staying in Otaru until late, it's essential to watch the last train schedule as trains on the Hakodate Line usually stop around 9 PM, with faster services concluding even earlier.
Additionally, during this trip, I read the renowned work "Tokyo Express" by Seicho Matsumoto. I had heard about this famous socially inclined detective novel some time ago, and the AI's recommended reading list featuring literature related to Hokkaido convinced me to give it a read. Finishing the novel provided a different perspective on the train journey from Otaru to Sapporo.
Day 3: Sapporo - Jozankei Onsen - Sapporo
Jozankei Day Trip Hot Springs
Originally, we considered experiencing both hot springs and skiing on this trip, especially with Jozankei Onsen and Sapporo International Ski Resort being close, allowing for a day trip to combine both experiences efficiently (though it might feel a bit rushed). However, due to a recent severe flu bout in our family before departure, we opted against engaging in strenuous activities like skiing.
Typically, hot springs in rustic areas require an overnight stay at a hot spring inn for a true onsen experience. Yet, if the hot spring area is relatively close, a day trip is feasible, known as "higaeri" in Japanese; this is the case with Jozankei's proximity to Sapporo. While Jozankei offers hot spring inns and resorts of various grades, we opted for a day trip due to the reasons mentioned earlier.
Local amenities cater to those interested in day trips such as the all-inclusive Onsen One-Day Trip Package Ticket we chose. This package includes round-trip fast bus transportation and a combination ticket to soak in hot springs in six designated locations, all for just 2,200 Japanese Yen per adult. Reservations can be made online or purchased offline, with the latter requiring an appointment. Note that reservations for the Kappa Liner fast bus that only stops at major stations need to be made in advance; if the seats are fully booked, walk-ins may not be accommodated. We booked online and directly boarded at the specified bus stop (exit 23 at Sapporo Station), so we cannot comment on the offline ticket purchasing experience.
As the Kappa Liner buses had limited schedules, we opted for the earliest journey from Sapporo Station at 9:40 and the last return bus from Jozankei before 14:30. Upon arrival at 10:30, we had four hours to explore and soak in the hot springs. The Kappa Liner buses resemble tourist buses, with room in the luggage compartment for baby strollers. Upon reaching Jozankei Shrine, we ventured from the Jozankei Gensen Park towards the Futamitsuri Bridge. Initially, I had considered taking a shortcut from the bridge to the nearby Yunohana Jozankei Palace for a soak, as it appeared close on the map (Google Maps suggested a lengthy detour back to the main road), but it turned out that accessing Yunohana from the bridge required climbing a hill, which was prohibited (uncertain if this restriction applies outside winter). Thus, after a long walk, we arrived at Yunohana around noon.
Regarding hot spring recommendations, many heralded the Hoheikyo Onsen at the bus terminus. It's renowned for Indian-run curry dining and tattoo-friendly policies, attracting curry enthusiasts and special tattoo design fans. However, considering time constraints due to the bus schedule and accommodations for our child (the website indicated facilities for children's play), we chose Yunohana Jozankei Palace, which also boasted excellent reviews.
Upon reaching Yunohana, we first enjoyed a light meal on the second floor (cash pnly+electronic meal tag ), following which we took turns soaking in the baths. The hot springs at Yunohana are segregated by gender, offering three indoor and three outdoor baths (photography not allowed). It's customary to bathe before entering the hot springs, going in without any clothing, with towels (available for purchase) used to cover one's head for warmth. As suggested by many, soaking in an outdoor hot spring amidst heavy snowfall is a uniquely unforgettable experience. Post-soak, you can purchase local milk from vending machines, much like the locals.
Exploring Sapporo and Crab Dinner at Sekkatei
Upon returning to Sapporo, we strolled and shopped along the famous Tanukikoji Shopping Arcade before dining at the reserved restaurant Sekkatei.
As mentioned before, crab is another Hokkaido specialty, with several popular crab-focused restaurants. We opted for a booked table at Sekkatei (reservations confirmed via email after booking online). Sekkatei offers set meals, with our choice being the setsugetsufuka, offering a chance to savor three Hokkaido crab varieties—red king crab, snow crab, and horsehair crab. While the portions were generous, we collectively felt that the crabs at this restaurant didn't match the delicacy of hairy crabs, lacking tender meat while carrying a salty tang.
Day 4: Sapporo - Shanghai
At 10 AM, we departed from our accommodation for the airport and, after passing through security at the duty-free shop (note that shopping before security typically requires hitting a specific spending threshold for tax exemption; post-security duty-free shops offer mainstream souvenirs), we purchased some souvenirs before flying back to Shanghai.
Summary
Our four-day journey was brief yet fulfilling, offering us a taste of winter in the north. Japan's advanced commercial and service sectors are outstanding, catering to tourists in various ways in Hokkaido, a world-renowned destination. I highly recommend those interested to visit and hope they experience unforgettable moments like we did.
The above text is based on my original Chinese composition and has been translated into English by GPT-3.5, followed by my proofreading and verification.